Behind an unassuming wall in Fes hides one of the most fascinating places you might visit in the city. Given the city's labyrinthian alleyways with their hundred secrets, that is saying a lot.

The Glaoui Palace is remarkable as much for the fact that it is currently lived in by several families as for its incredible decor.  Detailed tiling, mosaics, paintings and carved wood are as intricate as you'll see anywhere -- and, when I visited at least, I got a private tour of it all.

Laid back and casual, the visit was far more informal than other museums, which makes it all the more fun.  You'll be amazed at the luxury of the space, which also has a lived-in, artist's-loft sensibility.  In short, if you want a taste of the past while witnessing the relaxed quarters of a living painter and his family, don't miss a short visit The Glaoui Palace when you visit Fes.

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Curious about this project?  These home tours are the passion project of Sam, the main character in the story The Intrepid Starling.  You can read the novel here with new chapters posted each week.